Phoenix, Arizona. I’d never been. I’m not sure I had even entered the state…maybe when I drove cross country and visited the Four Corners my feet stomped the arid dirt for a minute, but that’s about it. When I learned I’d be going there to discuss profitability tactics in the distribution industry (I’m a killer in the biz brah), I did what I do and looked up good eats – if you have to travel for work, dining certainly serves as an outlet that makes it a little fun.
As of today I’ve been home six days out of the last twenty and it sucks to not see my family and stay in my normal routine, but if I’m going to be away I’m going to make it fun, and I’m going to eat some great damn food, like I did last night in Charleston or on this somewhat recent trip to Phoenix at Pizzeria Bianco.
I’ve wanted to eat at Chris Bianco’s mecca for years, since I first started studying pizza. Chris was doing amazing things with pizza out in the desert way before there was Neapolitan pizza in every major city, before there was an Eater, before Giovanni Di Palma was getting pedicures with Lebron James….Bianco’s was quickly became famous in Phoenix. They became legendary for their hours long lines and their pies of perfection. They’ve since expanded into a few locations, including the Town & Country mall location, which is one of the few which takes reservations.
Some people call it the best pizza in America and every day hundreds of people stand in line to eat their short list of pies. It’s a lot of hype. How does it measure up? Well, there’s a lot of great pie out there these days. Ten years ago I would tell you it’s the best pizza I’ve ever had.
Today – I would say it’s still up there for me. Varasano’s sourdough tang is an achievement, and everyone likes different styles, but Bianco’s knows what they are doing. The bread is very fine. Less tang and a dryer crumb, not a lot of spotted char, it’s chewy and light as a feather. The real triumph may be the arrangement of toppings. The selection of ingredients are insanely good, and the combinations are simple and delicious. The oft-mentioned Rosa with red onion, Parm, a touch of rosemary, and pistachios is perfection. Seem a little different? Maybe, but when you try it, the fruity aromatic combination is so, so harmonic. Photos below.
The hearth.
Antipasti. So simple and proper.
Caprese
Biancoverde – mozz, Parm, ricotta, arugula
The Sonny Boy – great olives are the difference maker.
Wiseguy pie
The Rosa. I talked about it. I ate it. I want it again. I’ve tried to replicate it.
Pizza crust rip curl
Next up, I met up with my buddy Aaron at Cowboy Ciao, his suggestion. It’s a popular local spot, with a funky menu, full of mildly funny menu descriptors and big meaty dishes and slutty crowd pleasers and a randomly famous dish called the Stetson Chopped Salad.
It looks way more beautiful than this late night photo, where the server had already mixed it all up, but the pretty plate arrives in linearly arranged fashion, a wonderful salad mix of Israeli cous-cous, tomato, dried corn, arugula, smoked salmon, pumpkin seeds, and currants – it’s an eclectic mix that is a must order.
I had this big fat short rib, which I paired with a solid inexpensive Lioco wine from their huge list, one of the larger ones I’ve seen outside of Bern’s. In fact, I was a little brief in my wine list review, not expecting much, and after I placed my order I realized there are some damn fine stellar wine selections on this list. The guy at the table next to us, a solo business traveler, was drinking a nice fat aged Bordeaux and told us it was one of his favorite places to drink the country.
Finally, on the way to the airport, we had our Uber drive stop at Little Miss BBQ, a Texas style BBQ restaurant only open a few months, and in Texas style, they open at 11AM and close when they are out of meat. The staff there couldn’t have been nicer, taking our luggage from us and storing it inside, while we waited in the happy, water-misted line for our meat treats, that day being special pastrami day.
Outdoor seating + mist.
The smoker.
They “close” at four, but they were out of fatty brisket by 1PM.
Pastrami, lean brisket, beans and potato salad.
Ribs….the ribs were fantastic
Chef/owner. Texas style, he took care of the customers one at a time, cutting to order. I was surprised…when he asked how it was, and I told him excellent, he said “it was better earlier in the day, I wish you had tried it then”. I love a guy who will admit that not every cut and execution is the same.
It was true, it wasn’t perfect, but BBQ is like sushi in that way. No two cuts are identical, and a true fan plays the game to find that perfect piece, and I have no doubt that Little Miss BBQ can do that for the lucky residents of Phoenix, a beautiful desert city, to which I hope to return soon.
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