You may know from reading this site (because really, who doesn’t read Eat It, Atlanta) that sushi is my favorite. Except when BBQ is my favorite. Or that day when burgers are my favorite.
But generally sushi is the tops to me, and Sushi Huku is where I go, largely because of the relationship I’ve developed with the chef, which tends to happen when one only sits at the sushi bar, as you should opt to do. (It should be disclaimed that I was introduced to said Chef and restaurant by former blogger, current badass Gene Lee, who used to write a good blog and for the AJC but just makes fun of me for having one now.)
nigiri deluxe lunch at Sushi Huku
This doesn’t mean I do not dine elsewhere. I recently made my fourth visit to Taka Sushi in Buckhead, which has fallen short to me in the past, though many tell me they have excellent experiences here. Taka’s menu is large, with a wide variety of sushi, rolls, sashimi style appetizers, and often soups and cooked dishes, such as a beef short rib which I’m told is as good as any in town. His blog is also hilarious. It’s the most honest chef blog I’ve seen. He recounts tales of grumpy customers, pretty women, he will tell you which dishes you should order, which dishes are not the most healthy, and even tell you when the tuna is not the best.
I sampled the gyoza to start (below), which will satisfy a dumpling fix. We also started with the “Best of Taka” for $20, a changing array of sashimi pictured at the top of this post (here – tuna, sardine, king salmon, and some other item). It’s fresh and creative and I’d order it again just to see what appears.
Nigiri lunch at Taka. Rice was better than in past visits. Most cuts of fish tender and size appropriate. Definitely acceptable for a pre-made lunch assortment of nigiri.
I also recently visited Umi in Buckhead Plaza, near Chops and King & Duke. Umi is a partnership which includes Fuyuhiko and Lisa Ito, both formerly of MF Buckhead, both of whom I’ve met a few times, and are very nice people who I hoped would do well in their venture.
It seems success will not be a problem. Umi is a very dashing space, albeit a little loud due the crowds of Buckhead’s finest, gobbling up pricey sushi and especially the Nobu-style specialties like ankimo and black cod in miso. As I sat at the front cocktail bar having a quick drink and a snack, the blonde Buckhead Betty in training next to me offered up many gems, and forcefully told her friend, “I am going to order the best thing you’ve ever had, ohhhhh myyyy ggawwwd it’s so good”. Perhaps it would be the Golden eye snapper nigiri (kinmedai), my favorite, two pieces for $22?
C’mon, both you and I know half the crowd in there doesn’t even eat raw fish (“I only eat cooked sushi!”) She ordered the lobster toban-yaki, a cooked dish. The gentleman next to me ordered a California roll (imitation crab, cooked pollock) and turned to me to inform me that Umi has THE BEST sushi.
I’m not complaining. To each his or her own, and I’m sure Umi is tonning it, but this clientele produces a certain environment, one which is less friendly towards the sushi lover who wants to sit down and eat one or two sexy pieces of nigiri at a time and have a focused experience, but more inviting to the celebrities (of which there are many) and wannabes who want to order all the neato and expensive specialities en masse and take in the party.
This is not to say Umi cannot deliver a good experience. The quality of ingredients are superb. Me, I’d sit at the front bar, where I posted up a week ago, and order an excellent cocktail (run by a former H&F bartender, I cannot recall his name – Andy Minchow is also helping until his new place is up and running) and just order a couple of pieces at a time. The assortment of high quality fish available is as expansive as anywhere in town. The prices are as high as Tomo or even higher in some cases. The shima aji (striped jack) below was fantastic. As good as any nigiri in town. I had one cocktail and these two pieces, and it ran me about $35 with tip. I’m not in a position to roll like that, but I’m glad for restauranteurs that it appears many patrons are back throwing it around like a few years ago.